In Finnish culinary tradition, the appeal of false morel mushrooms, particularly Gyromitra esculenta, runs deep despite their notorious reputation for being highly toxic. These mushrooms, which also include Verpa bohemica and Verpa conica, thrive in mixed forests growing at the bases of oaks, maples, and Douglas firs, producing fruiting bodies in the spring. The fungi contain a potent neurotoxin, making their consumption illegal in neighboring Sweden and Norway, but in Finland, the combination of strict preparation methods and the mushrooms’ gourmet status keeps them a part of the culinary landscape.
False morels are poisonous due to their gyromitrin content, a neurotoxin that affects the body’s mucous membranes and digestive system. Ingesting or even inhaling fumes from cooking these mushrooms in an unventilated space can lead to symptoms similar to severe stomach flu, including nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, muscle cramps, bloating, and headaches. In extreme cases, the toxin can cause liver and kidney failure, seizures, coma, and even death.
Despite the dangers, false morels are considered a delicacy in Finland, with many people willing to drive hundreds of kilometers to forage for them. The Finnish approach to preparing these mushrooms, which was put in place by the national health department, involves meticulous preparation to remove the gyromitrin. The mushrooms are soaked in cold water for an hour, then blanched twice in hot water for five minutes each time, with a ratio of 250 grams of mushroom to 2 liters of water. This rigorous process, followed by proper ventilation during cooking, helps ensure the mushrooms are safe to eat, though many medical professionals still advise against consuming them at all.
And yet Chef Kim Mikkola, owner of the Michelin-starred Restaurant Inari in Helsinki, praises the mushrooms for their slightly acidic, nutty, and umami-rich flavors. He hopes to pass down this culinary tradition to younger generations, preserving the cultural enthusiasm for these unique fungi. Despite their toxicity, false morels are cherished for their distinctive taste and are considered quite expensive, with one cup costing around eight dollars.
