Huitlacoche, often referred to as the “Mexican truffle,” is a delicacy in Mexican cuisine that has recently started to gain attention outside of its native country. This sporous fungus, which grows on the ears of corn, has a unique flavor and texture that sets it apart from both the corn it grows on and other fungi. Despite its rich history and valued place in Mexican culinary traditions, huitlacoche remains relatively rare and expensive, especially outside Mexico. But what exactly is huitlacoche, and why does it come with such a high price tag?
What is huitlacoche, and where does it come from?
Huitlacoche, scientifically known as Ustilago maydis, is a fungus that infects corn, causing the kernels to swell and form gray-blue galls. While this may seem like an undesirable condition to some—especially when compared to the pristine golden ears of corn people are accustomed to—it is prized in Mexico for its earthy, smoky flavor with hints of sweetness. Historically, huitlacoche has been consumed for centuries, dating back to the Aztec empire. The Aztecs, who held corn in sacred regard, were initially faced with the challenge of combating this fungus, which grew naturally during the rainy season. However, they quickly adapted to using huitlacoche as a part of their diet, recognizing its nutritional value and complex flavor profile.
The fungus itself can only be harvested during certain times of the year, when conditions are right for it to grow on corn. The appearance of huitlacoche symbolizes abundance in Mexican agriculture and is a sign of a successful harvest. Today, the fungus can be found in both fresh and canned forms throughout Mexico, with the fresh variety being highly coveted.
Why is huitlacoche so prized in Mexican cuisine?
Huitlacoche holds a special place in Mexican cuisine due to its rich cultural history and its unique flavor, which is often compared to black truffle or morels. The fungus offers a deeply earthy taste with subtle sweetness that comes from the corn it grows on, giving it a balance that is both savory and slightly sweet. In Mexican cuisine, it’s commonly used in tamales, quesadillas, and soups. Vendors in Mexico City, for example, frequently sell huitlacoche quesadillas made from blue corn tortillas, with stringy quesillo cheese and either red or green salsa to add an extra layer of flavor.
But its significance goes beyond taste. Huitlacoche’s cultural importance can be traced back to its Indigenous roots. Like other ingredients that originated in pre-Hispanic Mexico, huitlacoche reflects a long-standing tradition of utilizing natural resources in ways that honor both the land and the people who farm it. This is one reason it has garnered such respect among chefs and food enthusiasts alike.
What makes huitlacoche so expensive?
The price of huitlacoche, particularly outside of Mexico, can reach $15 to $20 per pound—significantly higher than regular corn or other common ingredients. Several factors contribute to its high cost, starting with its rarity. Fresh huitlacoche is seasonal and has a relatively short harvesting window, making it a limited resource even in regions where it naturally occurs. Farmers must carefully monitor the corn to ensure the fungus develops properly, and harvesting requires precision to avoid damage to the delicate galls. Additionally, the process of inoculating corn to encourage huitlacoche growth can be labor-intensive and prone to failure, making the yield unpredictable.
In the United States, huitlacoche is even more difficult to come by. Many American farmers have historically viewed it as a blight or invasive disease that destroys their crops, rather than a valuable food source. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) spent years developing hybrid corn strains that are resistant to the fungus, further limiting its availability in U.S. markets. It wasn’t until relatively recently that some farmers began cultivating huitlacoche intentionally to meet growing demand from chefs and specialty food distributors.
The rarity, coupled with the labor required to grow and harvest huitlacoche, drives up the cost, especially in countries where it is not widely produced or appreciated.
How is huitlacoche used in cooking, and what does it taste like?
Its earthy, umami-rich taste pairs well with corn masa, cheese, and fresh tortillas, making it a popular filling for quesadillas and tamales. When cooked, the fungus has a soft, slightly chewy texture, which, combined with its nutty and smoky flavor, makes it reminiscent of high-end mushrooms like truffles or morels.
In high-end Mexican restaurants, huitlacoche has been used in innovative ways. At Enrique Olvera’s world-renowned Mexico City restaurant Pujol, for instance, huitlacoche is served with truffle shavings on a blue corn tortilla. This dish focuses on how the earthy, woodsy flavors of both fungi—huitlacoche and truffle—complement each other, highlighting both the similarities and contrasts in their flavor profiles. Such uses have helped elevate huitlacoche’s status in the culinary world, but they’ve also contributed to its exoticization in some markets.
In addition to street food and gourmet cuisine, huitlacoche can be used in soups, risottos, and even sauces, where its savory flavor enhances the dish. It’s also a favorite among vegetarians and vegans, as it provides a hearty, meat-like flavor and is packed with protein and other nutrients, including unsaturated fats and lysine, an amino acid known for strengthening the immune system.
Why is it called the “Mexican truffle”?
Huitlacoche has earned the nickname “Mexican truffle” due to its rich, earthy flavor that is often compared to the highly prized black truffle. Both ingredients share an umami flavor profile that enhances the dishes they are added to, and both have become symbols of gourmet cuisine. However, the term “Mexican truffle” is also a product of the Eurocentric tendency to describe Indigenous foods in ways that make them more palatable to non-native audiences. While this comparison may help people unfamiliar with huitlacoche appreciate its culinary value, it also diminishes the rich cultural history behind the fungus and frames it through a Western lens.
The fact that huitlacoche is sometimes dismissed as “corn smut” or a “blight” in the United States while being exalted as a truffle-like delicacy in Mexico speaks to the complex relationship between Indigenous ingredients and modern culinary practices.
Huitlacoche, or the “Mexican truffle,” is much more than a fungus that grows on corn. It’s a reflection of Mexico’s rich agricultural history and culinary ingenuity. From its humble beginnings as a corn parasite, huitlacoche has evolved into a prized ingredient that is cherished for its flavor, texture, and cultural significance. Though it remains rare and expensive, particularly outside of Mexico, its reputation as a gourmet ingredient continues to grow. Whether enjoyed in a simple quesadilla or a Michelin-starred dish, huitlacoche offers a unique taste of Mexico’s diverse and storied culinary heritage.
